Micro needling, also known as collagen induction therapy, is a cosmetic procedure that involves using a device with small, fine needles to puncture the skin. The procedure creates tiny micro-injuries on the surface of the skin, which stimulates the body's natural healing response, including the production of collagen and elastin.
The micro needling device can be a roller or a pen-like device, and the needles are typically less than 1 mm in length. It can also be a large device, that uses radio frequency to further tighten the skin. The device is passed over the skin, creating small punctures in the outermost layer of the skin, which stimulates the production of new skin cells and the production of collagen and elastin.
Micro needling is commonly used to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, scars (including acne scars), stretch marks, hyperpigmentation, and overall skin texture and tone. It can also be used in conjunction with topical skincare products, as the tiny punctures created by the procedure can allow for better absorption of these products into the skin.
There are several types of professional micro needling treatments that can be performed by a trained skincare professional. Here are some of the most common types:
Traditional Micro needling / Rollers: This involves using a handheld device that features tiny needles that are rolled over the skin to create micro-injuries. The depth of the needles can be adjusted depending on the skin concerns being treated. This is not a method I would personally perform or recommend due to the angle the needles enter the skin and the possible damage it can incur.
Automated Micro needling / Pen Devices: This involves using a pen-like device that rapidly punctures the skin with tiny needles. The depth and speed of the needles can be adjusted to customize the treatment for each patient. There are many of these devices on the market, with the SkinPen® being the first to be FDA cleared for use on the face or body. The same results can be attained regardless of which device you are using, the technician performing your service should be well trained and experienced with the device they work with. My clients love micro needling, especially the skin plumping and tightening, pore reduction, reduced wrinkles and younger, fresher skin!
Radiofrequency Micro needling: This combines traditional micro needling with radiofrequency energy. The needles are heated to deliver energy to the deeper layers of the skin, which can improve skin tightening and stimulate collagen production. These devices resemble SkinPen® technology in that they have several needle tips at one end, but with one major difference – the devices also emit radiofrequency energy to tighten sagging skin. Another excellent option for tightening, reducing scars, pores, and strongly stimulating collagen for long term results, on the face, neck or body.
PRP Micro needling: This involves combining traditional micro needling with platelet-rich plasma (PRP), which is obtained from a patient's own blood. The PRP is applied to the skin during the treatment, which can enhance collagen and elastin production in deeper skin levels. Micro needling with PRP effectively treats acne scars, surgical scars, wrinkles, and fine lines, hyperpigmentation, sun damage, large pores, uneven skin texture irregularities, and it may help to decrease the appearance of stretch marks.
Chemical Peel Micro needling: This involves combining traditional or automatic micro needling with the application of a chemical peel solution. The micro-injuries created by the needles allow for better penetration of the chemical peel solution, which can improve the overall appearance of the skin. There will be some discomfort with this option that may not be felt with micro needling alone. Be careful with this option, protect your skin and carefully follow the post care instructions you receive from your technician.
Do you have a special event coming up and want your skin to look fresh and dewy? Be sure to schedule your micro needling 7-30 days prior to the event and use a medical grade hyaluronic acid in your post care.
The treatment I perform most often is micro needling with an automatic pen, that involves using a device to rapidly puncture the skin with tiny needles. Here are some of the benefits of this treatment:
Minimal Downtime: The recovery time after an automated micro needling treatment is typically minimal, with most patients experiencing redness and mild swelling that subsides within a few days.
Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Automated micro needling can stimulate collagen production, which can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles over time.
Improves Skin Texture: The micro-injuries created by the needles can promote cell turnover and the production of new, healthy skin cells, which can improve the overall texture of the skin.
Reduces Scarring: Automated micro needling can improve the appearance of scars, including acne scars, by breaking up scar tissue and stimulating the production of new collagen. This helps to soften the look of the scar. Multiple sessions will be needed based on your specific scars and desired results.
Increases Product Absorption: The tiny punctures created by the needles can allow for better absorption of topical skincare products, such as serums and moisturizers. This also helps your serums to work better. As with any service that exfoliates or disrupts the surface of the skin, improved absorption is a bonus, along with makeup looking flawless.
Customizable Treatment: The depth and speed of the needles can be adjusted to customize the treatment for each patient, allowing for targeted treatment of specific skin concerns.
My experience working with SkinPen® and Juv Pen J1 positive and I have had consistent results with all clients I have treated. What seems to make the biggest difference is the post care products and process. Setting clear expectations for clients is a must, sending them home with written instructions is key. Post care products also make a big difference. After working with the SkinPen® post care kit for more than 7 years, and recently switching over to using Hydrinity Restorative Kit, I have noticed increased client 1) comfort, 2) reduced downtime, 3) reduced redness, 4) faster visible results and 5) greater client satisfaction after their service.
The Hydrinity Restorative Kit includes the Hyacyn Active purifying mist to keep the area clean and free of microbes, followed by the Restorative HA Serum, a healing hydrator made of Hyaluronic Acids and skin nourishing ingredients. Hydrinity Skincare Science also offers an Age Renewal Kit, featuring the same great Hyacyn Active Purifying Mist and the Renewing HA Serum. The Restorative kit can safely be used after micro needling to ensure and enhance your results. I am not a paid sponsor for Hydrinity but definitely a big fan of their products.
It's important to consult with a licensed skincare professional to determine which type of micro needling treatment is best for your specific skin concerns and goals. Overly aggressive treatments with any device can cause long term damage such as scarring under the skin. Choose your technician/aesthetician carefully! I have noticed that though different devices produce very similar results, those results are primarily dependent on the level of training and expertise of the technician. Ensure that they have experience and a post care process prior to obtaining your service. Don’t be afraid to ask questions, you deserve the best results possible for your skin. Ultimately with a well-trained technician you will see great results from your micro needling treatment.
Medically trained Master Aesthetician
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